(Reaffirmed 2005) Indian Standard TEXTILES VESTS, COTTON, RIB-KNITTED SPECIFICATION - ICS 59.080.30 0 BIS 2000 BUREAU MANAK OF BHAVAN, INDIAN STANDARDS ZAFAR MARG 9 BAHADUR SHAH NEW DELHI 110002 April 2000 Price Group 4 Hosiery Sectional Committee, TX 10 FOREWORD This Indian Standard Sectional Committee was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards, after the draft finalized had been approved by the Textile Division Council. by the Hosiery For the purpose of deciding whether a particular requirement of this standard is complied with, the final value, observed or calculated, expressing the result of a test or analysis, shall be rounded off in accordance with IS 2 : 1960 `Rules for rounding off numerical values (revised)`. The number of significant places retained in the rounded off value should be the same as that of the specified value in this standard. IS 14760 : 2000 Indian Standard TEXTILES -VESTS, COTTON,RIB-KNITTED SPECIFICATION 1 SCOPE 1.1 This standard prescribes the requirements of grey, scoured, bleached, dyed or printed rib-knitted cotton vests with or without sleeves having round or V-neck. 1.2 This standard also covers vests tailored from coloured rib-knitted cotton fabric obtained by knitting with dyed yarn. 1.3 This standard does not specify general appearance, feel, lustre, degree of whiteness, shade, colour or print design of vest (see 5.3). - 4 ~MANUFACTURE AND FINISH 4.1 Fabric The vest shall be tailored out of well and evenly knitted tubular fabric. In case of round-neck short sleeves vests with welts (see Fig. 3), the welting at the sleeves and bottom shall be made of two layers of same fabric that is used in fabricating the vest. 4.1.1 The width of the ~fabric roll (diameter of tubular fabric) from which the vest is to be tailored shall correspond to the size of vest. Overboarded fabric shall not be used for manufacture of vests. 4.2 The design and shape of vest shall be as detailed below. The ribs shall run along the length of vest and sleeves: a) Round neck sleeveless (RN), Fig. 1A and short sleeve (RNS), Fig. 1B; b) V-neck sleeves c) sleeveless (VN), Fig. (VNS), Fig. 2B, and short sleeves 2A and short 2 REFERENCES The Indian Standards given in Annex A contain provisions which through reference in this text, constitute provision of this standard. At the time of publication, the editions indicated were valid. All standards are subject to revision and parties to agreements based on this standard are encouraged to investigate the possibility of applying the most recent editions of the standards indicated in Annex A. 3 TERMINOLOGY Round-neck Fig. 3. with welts (RNW), 4.3 Seams and Stitches For the purpose of this standard the definitions given in IS 3596 shall apply (see also SP 45). 3.1 Folding 4.3.1 The type of stitch (see IS 11161 and IS 10789) and count of sewing thread for seams and stitches at various portions of vest shall be as given in Table 1. 4.3.2 The minimum depth of hem, width of folding or width of tape/welt at bottom, arm holes, sleeves -and neck opening shall be as follows: Size ' 40 to 70 mm 75 to 85 mm 8 8 8 20 15 15 90 to 110 mm 9 9 9 25 20 20 ' A process of covering a cut edge of a fabric with a piece of fabric by folding and stitching, for giving appropriate finish to the vest as an embellishment. Depth of hem or width of folding at neck and armhole openings for RN vests Depth of hem or width of folding at neck opening, for RNS vest Width of folding at bottom for all vests and at sleeves for RNSNNS vest Depth of hem at bottom for all vests and at sleeves for RNSNNS vest Width of tape/welt at bottom for all vests and at sleeves for RNSNNSIRNW vest Width of tape/welt at neck opening for VNIVNS vest land at armhole openings for VN vests 5 5 5 15 10 10 1 IS 14760 : 2000 4.3.3 For RNW vests, the bottom finished by lock stitching. shall be suitably NOTE The size is designated by a number which is numerical value of chest girth of vest in cm. For example, an 80 size vest represents the vest with chest girth of 80 cm. 4.4 The tailored vest may also be screen or transfer printed as agreed to between the buyer and the manufacturer. 4.5 Freedom from Defects 5.2 Other Requirements The vests shall satisfy the requirements in respect of construction, dimensional change (due to relaxation), scouring loss, pH value of aqueous extract and colour fastness (including prints on finished vest) as given in IS 14759. 5.3 Sealed Sample If, in arder to illustrate or specify the indeterminable characteristics such as general appearance, degree of whiteness, colour, shade or print design of vest, a sample has been agreed upon and sealed, the supply shall be in conformity with the sample in such respects. The vests when visually examined shall be free from missed stitches, holes and cuts, oil stains or any other defect which may significantly marr the appearance of vest. . 5 REQUIREMENTS 5.1 Dimensions The dimensions of vests when measured by the method prescribed in Annex B shall conform to the requirements given in Tables 2 and 3. Table 1 Seams and Stitches (Clause 4.3.1) Sl No. Portion to be Stitched (2) Shoulder pieces, sleeves to the vest and underarms, tape/welt sewn to neck-opening, arm holes, sleeves and bottom Hemming at the bottom and elbow ends of sleeves Hemming at sleeves and armholes of sleeveless vest Type of Stitch Number of Stitches per cm, Min (4) 4 Recommended Thread') in the Needle(s) (5) One strand of 60 s/3 (100 d tex x 3) cotton sewing-thread Recommended Thread" in the Looper(s) (6) Two strands of 40 s/2 (145 d tex x 2) cotton sewing thread (i) i) (3) 3-thread overlock ii) 2l3 thread overlock One strand of 60 s /3 (100 d tex x 3) cotton sweing thread One strand of 60 s/3 (100 d tex x 3) cotton sewing thread Three strands of 60 s/3 (100 d tex x 3) cotton sewing thread l/2 strand(s) of 40 s/2 (145 d tex x 2) cotton sewing thread One strand of 60 s/3 (100 d tex x 3) cotton sewing thread One strand of 40 Sn (145 d tex x 2) cotton sewing thread in combination with one strand of 33 tex (300 denier) rayon or Both the strands of cotton sewing thread or rayon of the particulars stated above One strand of 40 sL! (I45 d tex x 2) cotton sewing thread in combination with one strand of 33 tex (300 denier) rayon or Both the strands ofmtton sewing thread or rayon of the particulars stated above iii) a) Double chain or b) Plat lock iv) Folding at sleeve, neck opening and armhole Reverse flat lock 4 Three threads of 60 s/3 (100 d tex x 3) cotton sewing thread `) For sewing threads refer to IS 1720 Variety No. 2, 3, 4, 5, 12. 13, I5 or 16, or IS 9543 Variety No. I, 2, 3, 4, or 5 2 IS 14760 : 2000 CLOTH LABEL D t L FIG. 1A ROUND-NECK SLEEVELESS CLOTH LABEL 0 A B 7 2-S cm I -------__-_ - -. FIG. 1B ROUND-NECK SHORTSLEEVES 3 IS 14760: 2OOtI I -T D id B ---- -- -a _ __--_ FIG.2A V-NECK SLEEVELESS CLOTH LABEL FIG.2B V-NECKSHORT 4 IS 14760 : 2000 CLOTH LABEL LOCK STITCHING FIG. -3 ROUND-NECK SHORT SLEEVES WITH WELTS 53.1 The custody of the sealed sample shall be a matter of prior agreement between the buyer and the seller. 6 MARKING 6.1 A suitable cloth label, woven or printed, shall be fastened to each vest at the inside of the neck portion (backside) on which the following shall be indicated: the license for the use of the Standard Mark may be granted to manufacturers or producers may be obtained from the Bureau of Indian Standards. 6.3 The vest(s) shall be packed in polyethylene or polypropylene bags and in box(es), as required by the buyer. However, each box shall also be marked with the following: a). Name of material; b) Count of yarn and type (carded or trade-mark, if any; c) Vest design (see 4.2) and size in cm (see 5.1); by the buyer (see d) Quantity per box; and as required by buyer or or combed); a>Size b) in cm (see 5.1); Name of manufacturer and c) Care labelling, IS 14452). if required NOTE - The colour from the label shall not bleed on to the vest during storage or use. e) Name of manufacturer; f) Any other information the law in force. 6.2 BIS Certification The vest may Mark. Marking with the Standard also be marked 7 PACKING The boxes containing vests shall be packed as agreed to between the buyer and the seller, preferably in bales or cases in accordance with IS 3086 or IS 3325 as the case may be. 5 6.2.1 The use of the Standard Mark is governed by the provisions of the Bureau of Indian Standards Act, 1986 and the Rules and Regulations made thereunder. The details of conditions under which IS 14760 : 2000 Table 2 Dimensions of Vest Round Neck/V-Neck, Sleeveless (RN or VN) and Short Sleeves (RNS or VNS) (Clause 5.1) All dimensions in centimetres. Size Width Lengthof Across vest Chest Length of Length of Sleeves Armhole') RNSNNS RN/RNS/ VNNNS Round-Neck Opening') RN?' VNIVNS A (Depth of Neck oh Min A (1) 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100 105 110 Tole(2) 20.0 22.5 25.0 27.5 30.0 32.5 35.0 37.5 40.0 42.5 45.0 47.5 50.0 52.5 55.0 + 1.5 B (3) 32.0 36.0 40.0 44.0 48.0 52.0 56.0 60.0 64.0 68.0 72.0 76.0 80.0 82.0 84.0 -1 C (4) 8.0 9.0 10.0 11.0 12.0 13.0 14.0 15.0 16.0 17.0 18.0 19.0 20.0 21.0 22.0 f 1.0 D (5) 10.0 11.0 13.0 14.0 15.0 16.0 18.0 19.0 20.0 21.0 23.0 24.0 25.0 26.0 ~27.0 f 2.0"' E 6) 42.0 44.0 46.Q 49.0 52.0 54.0 56.0 58.0 60.0 61.0 62.0 63.0 64.0 65.0 65.0 f 3.0 F (7) 11.0 11.0 13.0 13.0 14.0 14.0 15.0 15.0 16.0 16.0 18.0 18.0 19.0 19.0 20.0 Min Fl (8) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 9.0 9.0 9.0 9.0 9.0 I 3.0 i 1.5 I Width of %:: Min G (9) T 1 ' Width of Neck Opening Min E (10) 7.0 7.0 8.0 9.0 10.0 11.0 12.0 12.0 13.0 14.0 15.0 16.0 17.0 17.0 18.0 Depth of' Neck Opening Min F (11) 8.0 9.0 10.0 11.0 13.0 14.0 15.0 16.0 18.0 19.0 20.0 21.0 23.0 24.0 25.0 - `) These dimensions may be varied if desired by the buyer due to geographical the declared values shall be subjected to the tolerance specified. *' B-3 gives the recommended method for measurement of the dimension conditions or the preference of consumer. However, of round-neck opening. `) In case of FCNSNNS vests the specified values in the column are maximum, and shah be subjected only to the negative tolerance of 2.0 cm. Table 3 Dimensions of Round-Neck Sleeves Vest with Welts (RNW) (Clause 5.1) All dimensions in centimetres. Width of Width at Size Width Across Length of Vest Length of Welting A (1) 80 85 90 95 100 105 110 il5 Tolerance (2) 40.0 42.5 45.0 47.5 50.0 52.5 55.0 57.5 * 1.5 B (3) 55.0 56.5 62.0 63.5 66.0 68.5 71.0 73.5 Min C (4) 8.0 8.5 9.0 9.5 10.0 10.5 11.0 11.5 f 0.5 D (5) 10.0 10.5 11.5 12.0 12.5 13.0 13.5 14.5 zk 1.5 E (6) 20.0 21.0 22.0 23.0 24.0 25.0 26.0 27.0 f 1.0 F (7) 20.0 21.0 22.0 24.0 25.0 26.0 27.0 28.0 f 2.0 G (8) 11 .o 11 .o l2.0 13.0 14.0 15.0 16.0 17.0 + 1.0 -0.5 Back H (9) 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 4.0 4.0 f 0.5 J Front (10) 14.0 14.0 15.0 15.0 16.0 16.0 17.0 17.0 + 1.0 - 0.5 `) These dimensions may be varied if desired by the buyer due to geographical the declared values shall be subjected to the tolerance specified. conditions or the preference of consumer. However, 6 IS 14760 : 2000 8 SAMPLING AND CRITERIA FOR CONFORMITY 8.1 Lot In any consignment all vests of the same size and manufactured from rib-knitted fabric of the same designation and count of yarn and delivered to a buyer against one despatch note shall constitute a lot. 8.1.1 The conformity of a lot to the requirements of this standard shall be determined on the basis of the tests carried the lot. out on the samples selected from 8.2 Unless otherwise agreed to between the buyer and the seller, a number of vests depending upon the size of the lot shall be selected at random from the lot to constitute the gross sample. The number of vests so selected shall be in accordance with co1 2 of Table 4. 8.3 The number of vests to be tested and criterion for conformity for each of the characteristics shall be as follows: Characteristics Number of Rolls $0 be Tested See co1 2 of Table 4 Criterion for Conformity Non-conforming vests not to exceed the corresponding number given in co1 3 of Table 4 All the vests to satisfy relevant requirements the a) Physical Freedom manufacture from defects, and ~dimensions b) Other Requirements dimensional Construction, change and pH value of aqueous extract Colour Fastness See co1 4 of Table 4 c> 1 each of same colour, shade and/or print for lot size up to 500 and 2 above that All the test specimens to satisfy the relevant requirements Table 4 Sample Size and Permissible Number of Non-conforming (Clauses 8.2 and 8.3) Number of Vests in the Lot Physical Characteristics Vests I Number of Vests to be Inspected (2) 13 20 32 SO Permissible Number of Non-conforming Vests (3) 1 2 3 5 ' Other Requirements, Number of Vests to be Tested (1) up to 300 301 to 500 so1 (4) 3 5 5 8 to I ooo I 001 and above IS 14760 : 2000 ANNEX A (Clause 2) LIST OF REFERRED IS No. 1720: 1978 3086 : 1965 Title sewing Cotton (second revision) threads INDIAN STANDARDS IS No. 10789: 1983 Title Classification and terminology of stitch types used in seams Textiles Seam Classification terminology Textiles Care code using symbols types and labelling Code for seaworthy packaging of cotton hosiery yarn and goods Code for inland packaging of cotton hosiery yarn and goods Glossary hosiery of terms relating to ~for 11161: 1985 3325 : 1965 14452 : 1997 3596 : 1967 6359 : 1971 9543 : 1980 14759 : 2000 SP 45 : 1998 Textiles Fabric, cotton, rib-knitted - Specification BIS Handbook of textile terms on glossary Method for conditioning textiles Spun threads polyester sewing ANNEX B (Clause 5.1 and Tables 2 and 3) METHODS B-l CONDITIONING AND ATMOSPHERIC TESTING OF TEST SPECIMENS CONDITIONS FOR OF TEST or Table 3 as the case may be. For RNS vest, the method recommended in B-3 may be followed for measuring the dimensions of neck opening. B-3 MEASUREMENT OPENING OF ROUND NECK The test specimen shall be tested in prevailing In case of dispute, the atmospheric conditions. sample shall be conditioned and tested in the standard atmosphere as given in IS 6359. B-2 DIMENSIONS Take each vest constituting the test specimens. Lay it flat on a table. Remove by hand all creases and wrinkles without distorting the specimen. Measure nearest to 0.5 cm, the dimensions given in Table 2 Lay down a vest flat on a table. Remove all creases and wrinkles without distorting the specimen. Place a non-extensihle thread along the periphery of the neck opening starting from the place where the neck lable has been fastened. Now, measure the length of the thread that passed around the neck opening. 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